By Alaric 
It’s hard to visit the capital of Austria and not hear about Empress Sisi in Vienna.
As a Duchess of Bavaria and later wife of Franz Joseph, her story is just as fascinating as it is tragic.
The more you uncover about this mysterious monarch, the more questions are revealed than answered and it becomes an addictive puzzle to try and solve.
Ever since The Empress series was released on Netflix, I have been obsessed with learning all about Sisi.
So, I travelled to Vienna to follow in her footsteps and visit some of the places that feature in her complicated reign and life.
Here is a self-guided tour of Empress Sisi in Vienna to follow in the footsteps of Elisabeth of Austria.
Who was Empress Sisi?
Elisabeth or ‘Sisi’ was a Duchess of Bavaria and later became Empress of Austria.
Born into the Bavarian royal family in 1837 she grew up away from court with her ten siblings.
At just 16 years old Elisabeth married Emperor Franz Joseph who controlled one of the largest empires in Europe outside of Russia.
As she had an informal upbringing, she was unprepared for the strict rules and Habsburg court life in Vienna.
She was also pressured into producing children and, most importantly, an heir which made her deeply unhappy.
Unfortunately, Sisi’s life would be marked by further tragedy. She lost her first daughter Sophie just before her second birthday.
This threw Elisabeth into a deep phase of depression and she didn’t find much support from her husband or mother-in-law.
Sisi was also widely regarded as a great beauty but her routines to maintain her appearance bordered on the extreme.
She never weighed over 104 pounds (7.4 stone) and had vigorous exercise routines.
Later Sisi gave birth to Princess Gisela and then Crown Prince Rudolf but she rarely stayed put in Vienna and travelled extensively to escape court.
Elisabeth had liberal attitudes and little regard for convention so she felt alien to those around her.
She also despised her marital obligations and later asked to sleep in a separate room from Franz which simply wasn’t done in Viennese Court.
She smoked, was tattooed, wrote emotional poetry and was loose with her tongue much to the horror of the Habsburgs.
In 1881, her son Rudolf committed suicide and again she fell into a deep phase of melancholy.
She was terrified of ageing and so stopped allowing any portraits of her to be made and withdrew from public life.
Sisi wore only black, covered her face when outside and sought solace by travelling to Corfu, Switzerland, Hungary, Italy and Madeira.
In 1898, while travelling in Geneva, Elisabeth was assassinated at 60 years old and her body was brought back to Vienna to mourn.
Her actions as empress are often misunderstood and to some will remain an eternal mystery.
But, to others, she is a fascinating source of inspiration, a courageous free spirit and a celebrated strong woman.
The Empress on Netflix
The recent TV series on Netflix ‘Die Kaiserin’ has had me in a chokehold since it was first released.
And it’s not just me who has found a renewed interest in the complex life and romance of the Austrian Empress.
It’s become one of Netflix’s most-watched non-English TV shows and was viewed for 135 million hours in the first 18 days.
The show paints a far more realistic picture than the famous Romy Schneider ‘Sissi’ movies where most of the assumed parts of Elisabeth stem from.
It was so popular that a second series has now been released which concentrates on her complex marriage and the pressure of securing an heir.
Fans, including myself, are also visiting Austria to see where the events of her reign with Franz Joseph took place.
Although most of the show was filmed on location in Bavaria, I do recommend visiting Vienna to learn more.
A Self-Guided Empress Sisi in Vienna Tour
There are many places where you can follow the story of Empress Sisi in Vienna and unravel the complex tapestry of her life.
Although she loved Franz when she first married she rarely found happiness in this city.
Throughout her reign, she started to detest all the strict rules and pressures of the Viennese Court.
She was picked apart for everything she did and remarked upon her behaviour, beauty, weight, children and ageing.
She couldn’t escape the suffocation of courtiers whispering gossip and the scandalous tabloids of city newspapers.
After she had an heir and her expected duty was done, she all but fled the city and travelled extensively to mask her sorrow and seek solace.
But, you can visit the royal palaces where she lived, museums which tell you more about her life and her final resting place in the Imperial Crypt.
I highly recommend purchasing a Vienna Pass for your trip as most of these museums require a ticket. It all adds up and this pass will save you a small fortune.
1. Schönbrunn Palace
The extensive Schönbrunn Palace was a favourite summer residence of the Habsburg Empire that was gifted to Maria Theresa in the 18th century.
So, most of the rooms at the palace are Baroque including the impressive Great Gallery used for courtly balls and events.
Emperor Franz Joseph was born in Schönbrunn and spent a great deal of his life living at the palace during his long reign. It was also the place where he died in 1916.
Both Sisi and Franz lived in the royal apartments of the palace during their marriage and you can take a self-guided tour to follow in their footsteps.
You can visit the room which they shared at the beginning of their marriage and the writing room Elisabeth used to write poetry.
Sisi was known as one of the most beautiful women of her time and she had extensive routines to keep up her appearance.
You can visit the rooms where her ladies-in-waiting used to wash and intricately braid her lengthy hair which took hours.
2. Imperial Carriage Museum
As well as the palace, you can visit the Schönbrunn estate for a walk around the grounds which has a plethora of attractions and museums.
One of the best places to learn more about Sisi in Vienna is the Imperial Carriage Museum.
As well as many fine carriages, you can see Habsburg clothing and a “Sisi Path” dedicated to Empress Elisabeth.
There are copies of her exquisite dresses on display which highlight her famous ‘Wasp Waist’ and lots of her personal effects.
There’s also a room completely dedicated to her passion for riding.
You can find a portrait gallery showcasing all of her prized horses, riding gear and saddle.
3. Hofburg Palace Imperial Apartments
The Hofburg Palace was the residence of the Habsburg Empire for over 600 years and the centre of the Holy Roman Empire.
It was also the winter residence for the Imperial Family where Franz Joseph and Elisabeth lived together.
Today, the Hofburg Palace has been split up into several museums you can visit.
So, for Sisi in Vienna, you will want to head to the Imperial Apartments for Sisi’s rooms.
Here, you can see the room Elisabeth shared with Franz as well as her private bedroom and reception room.
You can also see large salons and the famous dining room where close family dined each week.
Franz’s office is quite interesting as he kept private portraits of Sisi here with her long hair unbound.
Over his reign, Franz Joseph gave audiences to over 260,000 people here! He used to be up at around 4 am every day to start his Imperial duties.
I have to admit although it was a lovely visit, it’s very short and not great value for money.
So, I recommend booking a combo ticket with the Sisi Museum next door.
4. Sisi Museum
One of the best museums to help truly understand the mind of Empress Elisabeth would be the Sisi Museum.
It has numerous sensitively designed exhibitions which help to illustrate her often misunderstood personality.
You can find her childhood clothes, excerpts from her diary, her poetry, items of her clothing, portraits and many of her elaborate gowns.
There are also records of her extensive travels and her love of sport and riding.
As much as I loved this museum and it provided beautiful insights, I did think it was very poorly designed as it didn’t anticipate large crowds.
It was a struggle to see the items on display and there were lots of blockages which caused long queues and you were crushed in a sea of bodies.
My advice would be to go for opening time and avoid the Spanish Riding School crowds!
5. Spanish Riding School
Sisi had a love of riding horses and the Spanish Riding School in Vienna is the oldest in the world.
It’s a place where the noble art of classical equestrianism has been running for 450 years.
You can see the dressage of Lipizzaners in a daily show also called the ‘white ballet’.
It takes place once per day at the Hofburg Palace. Make sure to book tickets in advance as it’s very popular.
I’m not going to lie, I was a little bored after the first few rounds of seeing the horses take a turn.
The Lipizzaners are led in a circle by riders in full livery with a commentary for almost a full hour. It may be an unpopular opinion but I didn’t get the appeal.
The room is pretty and it’s fun to see all the pomp and ceremony but it’s not something I would do again.
6. Augustinerkirche
After the Spanish Riding School, you can make a stop at Augustinerkirche next to the Hofburg Palace.
This was the church where Elisabeth and Franz Joseph were married in 1854.
It’s also where Sisi’s son Rudolf married Stephanie of Belgium in 1881.
Many other famous royal marriages have taken place here through the ages as well.
Empress Maria Theresa and Franz Stephan of Lorraine married here in 1736.
Her daughter Marie Antoinette married Louis XVI of France here in 1770. The wedding was made by proxy with the royal groom not in attendance
Napoleon Bonaparte also married his second wife Archduchess Marie Louise by proxy here in 1810.
It’s still owned by the Monastic Order of St Augustine and has over 700 years to uncover.
It’s completely free to visit but donations are very much welcome.
7. Café Demel
Viennese coffee culture is a historic tradition in this city and there are many prestigious cafés you can visit.
Café Sacher has the famous Sachertorte, Café Central is where famous intellectuals used to meet and Café Demel has connections to the Hofburg.
Demel is located almost opposite the entrance to the Hofburg Palace and used to provide sweets to the Vienesse Court in Sisi’s time.
One of Elisabeth’s favourite treats was candied violets and they used to be made in Café Demel’s kitchens.
If you visit Demel today, you’ll find an elaborate confectionary counter.
Here, you can buy all sorts of sweets and even chocolate-covered strawberries. But, you can also sit down for a coffee and cake.
After your adventures in the Hofburg Palace Museums, I recommend heading to the top floor to visit the heritage part of the coffee house.
You can have an afternoon tea or lunch surrounded by luxury and under twinkling chandeliers.
8. Vienna Furniture Museum
Love them or hate them, the most popular assumptions about Sisi in popular culture stem from the trilogy of Romy Schneider movies in the 1950s.
The movies were an instant success and wowed thousands of viewers as they were filmed in locations like Schönbrunn Palace.
However, they were not always historically accurate and also changed events to push narratives and values expected of a post-WWII audience.
For example, the bad relationship Sisi had with her mother-in-law Archduchess Sophie was an invention in these movies.
There is no evidence of Sophie disliking Elisabeth in any of her journals or letters. But, the movies were so powerful that the narrative has stuck.
A place where you can learn more about this is the Vienna Furniture Museum.
They have an entire ‘Sissi Trail’ about the franchise and how they relate to Elisabeth’s life.
You can also see lots of her dresses, portraits and Habsburg furniture during your visit.
9. Volksgarten
The Volksgarten, or People’s Garden, is a popular park in Vienna which is popular with tourists and locals alike.
It’s filled with manicured topiary, rose bushes, fountains and benches to relax.
In a far corner of the garden, you can find a memorial statue of Empress Sisi. It was finished in 1907 and sits by an impressive water feature.
There was a heat wave going on during my visit so I relished the chance to sit here in the shade for a while on the benches nearby.
You can visit the Volkgarten in the Innere Stadt or the first district of Vienna near the Burgtheater and Minoritenkirche.
Entry is completely free. The gates open at 6 am and close at 10 pm daily.
10. Hermesvilla
Sisi hated the pressures she faced in Vienna and detested staying in the royal palaces as she felt suffocated.
She would travel to escape far away from court life to reclaim a piece of herself.
Franz felt her absence deeply but understood her free spirit. It’s why he fell in love with her in the first place.
So, he decided to build her a villa on the outskirts of the city where she could escape but was not too far away from Vienna.
The Hermesvilla is now a gorgeous residence and museum open to the public. The name comes from the statue of Hermes outside.
Known as Sisi’s “Palace of Dreams”, it lies within the extensive Lainz Tiergarten in the 13th District.
You can visit staterooms and permanent exhibitions inside the villa to learn about Sisi.
Note that the information is only provided in German and there is no audio guide so make sure to have Google Translate on hand.
There is also a great café just outside and lots of scenic walks that you take around the park.
11. Imperial Crypt
Tragically in 1898, Elisabeth was assassinated in Geneva by the Italian Anarchist Luigi Lucheni.
Lucheni’s original target was Prince Henri Philippe of Orléans but the Dauphin failed to arrive. So, Lucheni decided to aim for ‘any monarch he could find’.
Unfortunately, that was Empress Sisi outside a paddle steamer she was due to board for Montreux.
He attacked her with a sharpened file and she still boarded the boat not realising the gravity of her injury.
The situation quickly turned grave and the boat returned to Geneva so she could seek medical attention.
After an hour of fighting for her life, Sisi died shortly after in her suite at Hotel Beau Rivage. She was 60 years of age.
Her body was then brought back to Vienna and an enormous funeral was held in her honour.
Elisabeth was interred in the Imperial Crypt and now eternally rests beside her husband Franz Joseph and son Rudolf.
You can visit the Capuchin Crypt as it’s now a museum in Vienna. As well as Empress Sisi, 159 Habsburgs have been laid to rest here.
Other Empress Sisi locations in Europe
After Vienna, there are plenty of locations around Europe to follow in the footsteps of Elisabeth of Austria called ‘Sisi’s Road’.
As a monarch with a free spirit, she rarely stayed in one place so you can visit some of her sanctuaries away from the Viennese Court.
Here are some of the Empress Sisi locations you should add to your bucket list.
Possenhofen Castle in Bavaria, Germany
If you want to learn about Sisi’s early life then you should head to Bavaria in Germany.
Elisabeth was a Duchess of Bavaria and part of the royal family of House Wittelsbach.
She was born in Munich and was one of ten children of Prince Maximilian of Bavaria and Princess Ludovika.
Elisabeth spent a large part of her childhood growing up in Possenhofen Castle on the banks of Lake Starnberg.
You cannot go inside the castle as it’s a private residence today but you can see the outside and visit several locations around the lake.
There is a free Sisi audio trail you can follow by scanning a QR code or clicking this link. I definitely recommend this tour as I found it fascinating.
During her reign as empress, Elisabeth wanted to travel to her childhood home frequently to seek refuge.
Her first cousin, King Ludwig II built Possenhofen train station for her to use in her honour.
She would take an express train from Vienna to Lake Starnberg and then stay around the lake or at the Wittelsbach Casino on Rose Island.
Today, there is a small but quaint Sisi museum at the historic train station with lots of rare items on display.
Lake Starnberg and Rose Island
In Lake Starnberg, there is a Sisi audio guide which accompanies a large walking trail you can follow.
It does take a large part of an afternoon, but you can visit Sisi’s childhood home, the church she used to attend, the places Elisabeth and her ladies used to swim, ride and more.
The audio commentary is from the point of view of people who knew her like her mother, her ladies in waiting and her guards on duty etc. It’s really creative and sets the scene!
One of my favourite places to visit was Rose Island (Roseninsel).
This is home to the Casino or Royal Villa built by Maximilian II and became a sanctuary for King Ludwig II throughout his life.
Ludwig allowed Sisi to stay there for weeks to recuperate away from prying eyes and they left each other letters. You can learn more on a guided tour.
The nearest S-Bahn Stations are Possenhofen or Feldafing from Munich and then you can walk 20 minutes to a ferry service to the island run by Roseninsel Bayern.
It only runs from May to October and sometimes the services are suspended if there is inclement weather.
Once you arrive by boat, you can explore the island for free but if you want to visit the Royal Villa you need to buy a ticket for a tour that runs every hour.
I recommend purchasing a Bavarian Administration Annual Pass if you plan to visit palaces around Munich and Neuschwanstein Castle as you’ll easily make your money back. The pass includes 40 attractions around Bavaria and it’s only 50 euros.
Royal Palace of Gödöllő in Hungary
After the Austro-Hungarian Empire was established in 1867, Sisi and Franz were gifted the Royal Palace of Gödöllő at their coronation.
This was originally built as a large Baroque residence by Count Antal Grassalkovich in the 18th century and was nicknamed the ‘Hungarian Versailles’.
Sisi loved visiting the Gödöllő as the people there were always warm to her in contrast to Vienna.
She could also converse with them in Hungarian and was often allowed to walk and ride on her own.
It later became a sanctuary of sorts where the royal family would spend several months a year.
Elisabeth decorated state rooms with her favourite colours like purple, luxurious textiles and designs.
You can visit the Royal Palace of Gödöllő on a short train journey from Budapest and I highly recommend doing so!
You can take a tour of the staterooms, visit some Sisi exhibitions and take a walk around the large lush grounds.
I loved my visit and they have a great gift shop of Sisi products.
The Achilleion in Corfu
Sisi used to have a very complex and demanding beauty routine as the Empress of Austria.
She was required to bathe for hours and her hair and appearance would be fussed over endlessly.
While she was being groomed for the Viennese Court she would read and study languages.
One of those was Greek and she quickly developed a fascination with the history and culture.
After the tragic loss of her only son, she built The Achilleion in Corfu as a refuge. The design was inspired by the mythical Palace of Phaeacia.
Elisabeth visited frequently until 1896 when she lost interest and lots of pieces were shipped back to Vienna.
After Sisi’s death, it was inherited by her daughter Archduchess Gisela and later bought by Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany.
Today, it’s run as a museum that you can visit in Corfu.
You can see the luxurious interiors of the palace with the Kaiser’s Throne and explore the manicured gardens.
Sisi’s Memorial Trail in Montreux / Geneva
Although quite sombre, you can also visit Sisi’s Memorial Trail in Montreux and Geneva to follow the events leading up to her assassination.
You can stay in the hotel where she died and follow her footsteps around Geneva and Montreux.
There is also a brass statue that commemorates Empress Elisabeth of Austria by the lakeside.
Read more of my Austria travel guides
How to visit Justizpalast in Vienna
How to visit the magical Austrian National Library
Admont Abbey Library – the most beautiful library in the world
Save this Empress Sisi in Vienna guide for later!
